Chris and Florence's Travels

Author: Chris

  • Huacachina, Peru

    Huacachina, Peru

    Huacachina is a small oasis town in the Ica desert region. This desert is the northernmost part of the Atacama desert. Whilst largely a jumping off point for various activities, the town itself is really pretty, with the sand dunes above and the calm oasis in the centre.

    Weather:

    Hot hot hot!

    Where we stayed:

    We stayed at a nice simple hostel, although with all our activities we probably only spent about 7 hours there!

    Sand boarding and buggy ride:

    Our first activity, shortly after arriving, was a 2-hour ride across the huge sand dunes, stopping for sand boarding and to watch the sunset. I don’t know our driver’s name, only that his colleagues said we were with ‘El Loco’. Well, his driving certainly confirmed his loco status. We swerved round basins, leapt from sand dune ridges, and were thoroughly thrown from side to side in the back.

    The sand boarding only left us with a few bruises here and there, but was well worth it for the exhilarating speed as you approach the bottom.

    The sunset across this landscape was simply beautiful.

    The guide made us do this…
    Florence says I need to work on my camera skills

    Day trip to Paracas, Las Islas Ballestas, and Paracas National Reserve

    This day trip started (after a minibus ride) with boating around some sparse and hostile looking islands, which were nonetheless home to some native flora and fauna, and economic activity.

    There were huge colonies of various types of birds, sea spiders (basically crabs if you ask me), sea lions, and our favourite of all, penguins. Waddling warily by the rocky cliff face, the petite penguins were adorable. [F: Chris loves his alliteration…] All of these birds give rise to the local economy of collecting bird poo which is used as fertiliser.

    Bad hair + windy day….

    The afternoon saw us exploring the national reserve, driving along roads made of compacted salt, and taking in the fairly barren landscape. We had a refreshing swim in the perfectly cold water, enjoyed lunch at a different beach area with restaurants, and finally saw a reddish beach, due to iron oxide in the sand.

    Bonus:

    Just in case a 5.30am start to our day trip wasn’t early enough, the Nazca tectonic plate decided to wake us up in the night with a shake – by which I mean a magnitude 6 earthquake!* This was a little scary, but passed quite quickly.

    *Earthquake of magnitude 6.0 with an epicentre 35 miles away. Some buildings were damaged at the epicentre but no injury or loss of life reported.

    Next stop, Arequipa, also known as The White City.

    Besos,

    Chris y Florence

  • Máncora, Peru

    Máncora, Peru

    It was sad to say goodbye to Ecuador, but we were excited to be entering Peru. Unlike our easy flight from Colombia to Ecuador, this international crossing involved about two hours at the border station, at around 3am. Our arrival in Máncora was therefore quite a tired one! This was made up for by days spent going to cafes and lying on the beach, which aren’t too taxing, so a fantastic time was had.

    Weather:

    A brief return to the 30’s, and quite a dry heat despite being at the coast. A welcome change after rainy Ecuador, but too hot for us Brits to stay for a long time.

    Where we stayed:

    Our accommodation was a simple room, completely ‘self check-in’ style, i.e. keys just waiting for us on arrival – but this suited our 5am arrival well. Other than the leaky toilet, we had a pleasant stay making feline friends and sitting on our little deckchairs!

    Best thing we ate:

    The Green Eggs and Ham cafe welcomed us each day for breakfast, and while the eggs, pancakes and other dishes were good, the Dulce de Vanilla in Florence’s iced coffee was delicious. Unfortunately the next morning I was too sleepy to remember to order it for myself…

    Coolest thing we did:

    As they say: when in Rome, go to the beach – and that’s just about all we did! An incredibly friendly and helpful tuktuk driver, Alex, recommended the best beach spots for us, namely Pocitas and Vichayito.

    On both days / both beaches, it was conveniently happy hour (it seemingly hasn’t not been happy hour for 6 weeks now..) which meant for a wonderfully low price we had cocktails in hand as well as sun loungers, hammocks and palm umbrellas to ourselves. The high season ended a few weeks ago, so there were only a few other visitors on the beach.

    The Pacific ocean was a lovely temperature to swim in, and later reflected gorgeous sunsets. We also saw lots of birds diving into the water for fish, which was quite stunning.

    Bonus:

    The cats. Our accommodation had lots of lovely cats who were keen for some attention, to the point they flung themselves at our mosquito net in the morning.

    Next stop, Lima! (after some long bus rides…)

    Besos,

    Chris y Florence

  • Cotopaxi, Ecuador

    Cotopaxi, Ecuador

    The Cotopaxi volcano is impressive, one of the few in the world with a near-perfect cone shape. Full of beautiful landscapes, the surrounding national park is somewhere we were super keen to stay, and we’re really glad we did.

    Having stayed at The Secret Garden Quito, we took a free shuttle to their sister hostel in Cotopaxi. We stayed for a few nights and really enjoyed the social atmosphere and simultaneous switching off as there was no wifi – other than for a couple of rationed hours in the evening, in the garage, where people could be spotted huddled over their phones watching TikTok or checking the football score.

    Weather:

    Wet, muddy, and cold – especially at night! This presented logistical challenges in getting clothes dry in time to re-wear or pack them, handily overcome with the bungee cord I packed acting as a clothes line (plus the heater/dehumidifier in the room doing some heavy lifting).

    On our first morning we woke up just before 6am to try and catch the volcano at sunrise, but we were met with a lot of cloud. Fortunately on our last morning we had clear blue skies and a great view.

    Where we stayed:

    The hostel was very remote – no shops or even other buildings nearby. Our room was a little ‘birdhouse’ cabin, with a large window facing directly towards Cotopaxi volcano. It was compact but cozy.

    Best thing we ate:

    The hostel did family style meals, with everyone sitting together at the table for breakfast, lunch and dinner. We’re not sick of each other yet – but it was really nice to chat to others, even when exhausted after a day of hiking. Florence may have found the prospect of this less appealing at times, but she always came round. The food was hearty and filling (big portions). Potato soup, pizzas, tortillas, burgers, minestrone etc.

    We had some very fun dinners – especially the first night chatting to a French couple opposite. Her game of choice was ‘guess everyone else’s age’, and once we’d made our guesses she had no hesitation in reaching over, tapping someone on the shoulder, and asking (in a heavy French accent) “how old are you?”…..

    Coolest thing we did:

    All three hikes we did deserve a mention.

    One the first day we hiked to a waterfall, on what turned out to be a surprisingly technical trail. This involved climbing along some rock walls, clinging on to a rope while doing so. It was also raining, but with ample care and attention it was all okay. The waterfall was pretty.

    The second day saw us hike a section of the 5897m Cotopaxi volcano. We were driven up to around 4600m, and first hiked up to around 4860m. Chris wasn’t feeling 100% so opted to stay at the mountain refuge at that point, while Florence pushed on with a group to reach the glacier at over 5000m. It was a pretty tough climb but well worth it. Florence still isn’t quite sure what a glacier is, but it was pretty impressive to look at. Chris opted to take a mountain bike for part of the descent – this was an exhilarating ride, both on the mountainside descent and thereafter for a few kilometres through the Andean Páramo grasslands. We saw wild llamas, impressive views, and huge lichen-covered boulders.

    Despite waking up with achey legs, we signed up for a third day of hiking, up the Pasochoa mountain. Whilst the summit wasn’t as high at Cotopaxi, at 4200m, there was no vehicular transport to start – just a 700m climb. Wearing the wellies provided, we trudged through thick mud in the visually stunning highland rainforest (every single tree covered in moss, cool fungi, lichen etc). Some flat sections and more Páramo grassland preceded a final push to the top. Once again Chris felt a bit ill and didn’t make it, returning early with one of the guides. Florence carried on to the top and happily though up the rear of the group with another English girl. Leading the charge was an American marine, so Florence didn’t feel too bad about being at the slower end of things. The final stretch involved scrambling over some rocks, which was a little scary, and given there was no view at the top (just cloud), she was left wondering what it was all for. The descent was unrelentingly wet and muddy but at least there was some sense of achievement.

    Bonus:

    Certainly the best view I’ve ever had sitting on the loo…..

    Next stop Cuenca, via a night bus!

    Besos,

    Chris y Florence

  • Minca, Colombia

    Minca, Colombia

    Nestled in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta mountain range, Minca is a small town popular with travellers and Colombians looking for hiking and relaxation surrounded by nature. We really enjoyed the laid back vibe and the nature. Our time was split between hiking, relaxing at our hostel, and walking through the town. Our cafe stops didn’t include many coffees, as daily power cuts restricted what they were able to offer, and coffee was off the list. Probably good to take a small caffeine break!

    Weather:

    Being in the mountains, it was slightly cooler than Cartagena (thankfully), but still hot. Like most places in Colombia, rain can break suddenly and quite hard, and we did get caught in a downpour one day.

    Sadly the downpour we got caught in was worse than this and with no roof over our heads!

    Where we stayed:

    We stayed in a lovely family-run hostel, with incredibly friendly hosts. The terrace had fantastic views of the mountains, and the pool was refreshing. With some hammocks too, it was a real winner.

    Best thing we ate:

    A cute cafe called Duni gets the top spot for us, where we enjoyed two visits. I liked the arepas I had, and Florence liked the ginger lemonade, but the standout star for both of us was their (gluten-free) almond and banana muffin, served warm.

    Coolest thing we did:

    There are lots of hiking options around Minca, and we decided to go for one of the more laid back ones. After hiking just over an hour, with a gentle uphill climb, and then steeer stretch, we reached the impressive Marinka waterfalls and ponds. The scenery here was amazing, and the water was only a bit too cold for my liking. We swam below the waterfalls for a while, and then enjoyed some maracuya juice on a net overlooking it all.

    The hike home saw us get completely drenched as we hadn’t brought our raincoats. (Our backup ponchos provided some protection)

    Bonus:

    Some fantastic wildlife:

    • Hummingbirds: we thought we saw these a few years ago, but they turned out to be hummingbird moths, so it was great to see the real thing
    • Pretty green lizard (not the scientific name)
    • Leafcutter ants: if you don’t know how cool these are, look them up
    • Giant blue butterfly: at least 15cm across, maybe more!
    Spot the hummingbird!

    Next stop, Santa Marta and Tayrona National Park.

    Besos,

    Chris and Florence

  • Guatapé, Colombia

    Guatapé, Colombia

    From Medellín we took a bus to the lake and town of Guatapé, which was already on our radar and was strongly (and repeatedly) recommended to us in Medellín. The lake was formed when a dam was built in the 70s, and is visually stunning. The small town of Guatapé is quite touristy, with lots of colourful buildings, street art, and cafes – nice to walk around for an afternoon. Getting around the lake is primarily done (for tourists) in colourful tuktuks called motochivas.

    Weather:

    Bright blue and sunny skies with just a few clouds. Super hot, which is a taste of the next week and a half on the Carribbean coast. Amazing thunderstorms at night.

    Where we stayed:

    We found a great little hotel in the countryside, set in a peaceful valley on an offshoot of the lake. The idyllic location was a key factor in choosing it, and the bargain discount we secured sealed the deal.

    Best thing we ate:

    No standout meals here, just standard Colombian fare. With just one vegetarian option on the menu at the hotel, Florence enjoyed a margarita pizza two nights in a row.

    Coolest thing we did:

    We climbed the impressive Peñón de Guatapé, a large isolated rock hill which rises 200m above its surroundings. A 708-step staircase built into the side takes you right to the top, and whilst we were certainly sweating by the end, it wasn’t as hard as we had feared.

    The views over the lake were beautiful, both from the top and from the stairs.

    Bonus:

    The hotel had kayaks available for hire, which we took advantage of for a little excursion on the lake. After some initial debates about stroke timing and technique, and of course Chris’ thorough safety briefing, we got underway quite successfully and paddled happily around.

    Bonus bonus:

    Chris was unreasonably happy at saving just a few pounds by making us take local buses twice, rather than the tourist tuktuks, even if that involved giving drivers complicated descriptions of which layby to stop in near our hotel, and in the other direction, waiting on the side of the road and watching intently for the bus because there was no obvious bus stop.

    Next stop, the Carribbean coast!

    Besos,

    Chris and Florence

  • Salento, Colombia

    Salento, Colombia

    We arrived in Salento exhausted after an unexpectedly short night bus to Armenia dropping us off at 4am. Chris didn’t believe me when I said we’d arrived. We then had to wait in the bus station for our connection to Salento.

    Weather:

    Warmer than Bogotá but still very mixed – sun early in the day but the clouds roll in around the mountains and break into storms. We heard the loudest lightning ever which struck really close by. We spent a couple of evenings watching water rush down the streets while we ate dinner.

    Where we stayed:

    A cute hostel with a traditional paisa style courtyard, just off the main square (once again Plaza Bolívar). Mattress was amazingly hard but surprisingly comfy.

    Best thing we ate:

    Probably Chris’s arepa con queso, which was freshly made and covered in butter, much better than the dry pastry Florence chose.

    Dinner overlooking the square

    Coolest thing we did:

    The main reason for going to Salento was to hike the stunning Valle de Cócora, home to the otherworldly forest of wax palms. We caught a Willy (ex-US Army jeeps) from the main square where we were sandwiched between frenchies, apparently the number one nation visiting Colombia.

    We set off on the hike from Cócora, it took us about 6 hours (with lots of stopping) and it was 750m of elevation gain. We went anti-clockwise to save the viewpoints to the end, to feel like we really earned it, and on balance we’d say they were definitely worth it!

    Bonus:

    While we mainly came for the Valle de Cócora, we found that Salento town was a charming place. It felt really safe and pleasant to walk around and was clearly popular with local tourists as well as backpackers.

    Bonus bonus:

    Cool fungus.

    Our next stop is Medellín – hasta luego!

    Besos,

    Chris and Florence

  • Bogotá, Colombia

    Bogotá, Colombia

    Our first stop in South America was Bogotá where we arrived after a delayed flight and long immigration queues. Once we’d caught up on sleep we set about exploring the behemoth of a city over the next three days. Tasty food, impressive landscapes surrounding the city, and good museums – we loved the Botero.

    Weather:

    Low 20s, lots of clouds, occasional showers, sun (and UV) strong enough to burn

    Where we stayed:

    We stayed in the historic centre, La Candelaria, in a backpacker hostel. Delicious breakfasts and really cool decor. Exceptionally thin walls. Friendly barman.

    Best thing we ate:

    Lots of good food, with two highlights:

    1. Quinua and Amaranta – a homely lunch place serving an exceptionally healthy vegetarian daily set menu
    2. Testigo – a modern Colombian restaurant recommended by a friend, impressive grilled meats, fish and copious amounts of cheese.

    Coolest thing we did:

    We summited Monserrate, the dominating hill overlooking the city with a sanctuary perched on top. You can climb the 1500 step trail, take the cable car, or the funicular. We opted for the trail – views 10/10, difficulty also 10/10, steps completed: 500/1500. Then we returned and took the cable car. I think we’re still adjusting to the altitude….

    Bonus:

    South America is a brand new continent to us, where we know just one person (before the trip!). One of Florence’s ex-colleagues, Mariale, lives in Bogotá and luckily we were able to meet up with her for coffee and almojábanas, a traditional Colombian cake. It was great to see a friendly face and to get some local recommendations (Testigo, mercado de perseverancia).

    Next stop, Salento, in la zona cafetera. ¡Hasta luego!

    Chris and Florence 😎

  • Birthday in Bogotá

    Birthday in Bogotá

    I got to enjoy my 26th birthday in Bogotá, Colombia, the first destination on our adventure. With the time difference to home, I woke up to lots of birthday messages, thank you to all! The rest of the day was spent exploring, getting sunburned (oops), and mostly eating…

  • Three weeks to go….

    Lots of preparations underway, including setting up this website. Otherwise we are busy making sure we have everything we need and sorting out things at home for when we’re away!